Wet weather racing
Last Updated on Monday, 12 October 2009 07:13 Written by SlowSteady Thursday, 27 November 2008 01:00
Those who know me will tell you that I avoid wet weather racing like the plague. I might be water-proof but my RC electronics aren't but worse of all I just can't drive well in the wet. Maybe my throttle control is more on-off than I think it is or it is the lack of wet weather racing experience as well as lack of fine control skills. Ultimately though if you participate in a serious race series such as the BRCA Nationals, EFRA races and/or IFMAR events, you need to be prepared to race in the wet. Below I have assembled some hints and tips from various 3Hobby members and hope that it will help you with your quest to be the Michael Schumacher of RC. If you have more tips to share, please email them to me at sowsteady AT hotmail DOT com.
Car preparation, contributed by Baz
Although all components of your car are sensitive to water and dampness, the electronics are the most sensitive of all. The receiver, battery, connectors, switch (if you use one) and servos deserves first hand attention.
| Receiver For the receiver I used an old 35mm film case and put a balloon over the open end so if the receiver needs to come out it can be easily removed. Where the wires go in the other end of the case I used some “Fender Mender” to seal in and around the wires and pulled the rest of the balloon over.
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| Servos Sealing the servos on the joints and the output shaft with thick grease should keep the water out. Here I used Mugen's Super Grease to seal the lower cover of my servo. It is expensive grease but the servo is even more expensive so this is well worth it. This thick grease will never fail to prevent water or dampness from getting in. It is also a good idea to dab a bit of this grease where the servo lead exits the case.
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| Air filter When the track is very wet your normal air filter will soak up a lot of water which can’t be good for the engine, so get yourself an air filter with a casing around it like the “Mugen Air Booster”. I think “Serpent” makes a similar filter. Make sure you use a cable tie as these types of filter are top heavy and will come off in a crash without one.
To make sure no water gets into the filter insert 2 pieces of tubing in the inlet holes of the INS box and route them to a dryer part of the car. Change the filter every heat and before the final. (by Ziggy) |
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| Switch If like me you like to use a switch then get a switch cover, you can also cut a small peace of lexan to go over the cover to help hold it down and make a better seal.
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| Muffler springs As a precaution two muffler spring’s is a good idea, you know just in case.
[Actually, this makes very good sense especially when racing in the wet,. with all the slipping, sliding and drifting, the chances of you and the other racer coming together is far greater. Bullet-proofing is key! ED] |
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Bearing Care
After wet racing carefully take covers off and soak bearings in white spirit, dry, oil or pack with light grease to help keep water and dirt out in the future.
Protect the bearings using some "chain guard" for motobikes. Its like shoe polish and you melt it down on a gas stove then paint it onto the bearings. (by Ziggy) Engine Care After wet racing strip down engine, soak in fuel which will catch any water inside, oil and rebuild.
Radio Gear Care After wet racing I’ll take off the covers on my transmitter, servos and remove the receiver and let the air get to them overnight just to make sure any moisture inside gets out.
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Car setup changes, contributed by EngPK
EngPK recommends trying the following changes to your car's setup for wet racing. Of course, it depends on how wet or damp the track is, the track layout, track surface, what tyres you are using - rubber or foam - as well as your own driving skills. The pointers below are a good start however so try them out.
- Wider front trackwidth - reduces steering, prevents oversteering and therefore spin.
- Narrower rear trackwidth - more rear traction.
- Maximum caster - reduces understeer.
- Centax clutch looser - reduces punch and prevents slip/slide.
- Gearing - reduce acceleration and punch.
- Engine tuned leaner - more damp, water, less oxygen.
- More toe-out - helps push water away, more turn-in.
- Wet threaded tyres - don't drive on the racing line!
- Lower RC, Higher CG - more roll therefore more traction.
- Softer springs - easier weight transfer, more roll therefore more traction.
Wet "hull", contributed by SlowSteady
This idea was inspired by one made by Cartman for his 710. Joe_K bought some nice thick lexan and gave me a piece (thanks Joe) and so what you see below is my version of what I call a Wet "hull" for my car.
With contributions from Baz, EngPK, Ziggy and SlowSteady. Now to get some wet track time to test and practise NOT! Send me your tips, SS.
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